This article contains affiliate links that may earn us a commission at no extra cost to you. Read our Disclosure for more. Thanks for your support!
Last updated on December 16th, 2024 at 06:35 pm
In the heart of the UNESCO-listed Upper Svaneti region, Mestia is one of Georgia’s best-kept secrets and visiting Mestia in winter is a unique opportunity to delve into the area’s authentic lifestyle and distinct culture.
Trips to Mestia in winter are becoming increasingly popular with winter sports enthusiasts as the area’s beautiful mountains are renowned for their excellent snow conditions. Yet, Mestia isn’t for skiers alone.
In this guide, we’re exploring all the fantastic things to do in Upper Svaneti and Mestia in winter apart from skiing.
Where Is Mestia?
Mestia is a small town in the Upper Svaneti region of Georgia (the country). Situated in the Caucasus Mountains near the Russian borders, Mestia sits at 1500 metres above sea level.
The people of Mestia and Svaneti are called Svans, an ethnic group with its own language. The endangered Svan language has no written standard.
With prominent defensive towers adorning the region’s quaint villages and boasting the country’s highest peak, the entire Upper Svaneti area is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
How To Get To Mestia & Svaneti in Winter
By Car
In theory, Mestia is an 8-hour drive from Georgia’s capital, Tbilisi. However, in winter, the trip duration can be longer as snowfalls in the mountains may block the roads on winter days.
From Tbilisi to Zugdidi, the last of Georgia’s main cities you come across before surrendering to the utter charm of the Svaneti mountains, the drive is easy and comfortable even on a snowy day.
But then comes the challenging part. From Zugdidi to Mestia, you need to jump in a 4×4 car to avoid getting stuck in the snow.
This demanding part of the main road normally takes about three hours. Although the drive is very scenic with narrow passages and steep slopes, avalanches are quite frequent in the winter.
From personal experience, we know that driving time can even double when the weather is bad.
We had the bad luck to stumble upon avalanches on our way to Mestia. This part of our trip took around seven hours instead of three as we kept stopping to wait for the snow tractor to clear the blocked road.
That said, on our way back to Tbilisi from Mestia with better weather conditions, the road was clear all the way to Zugdidi without any problems.
What we learnt from this adventure is that the safest and best option is to hire a local driver with a private car to take you to Mestia in winter instead of venturing out in a rental car.
Experienced local drivers know the winding roads like the palm of their hands and they’re used to driving on such heavy snow.
Moreover, make sure you triple-check the weather before setting off on your Svaneti trip. If the weather is bad with snowstorms, it’s better to spend a couple of nights in Zugdidi until it gets better.
By Plane
Another way to get to Mestia is by plane. However, we wouldn’t recommend it as planes landing at Mestia Airport are small and flights are frequently cancelled due to bad weather conditions.
A Hidden Paradise of Powder Snow
Covered in snow during the winter months, Mestia and the Svaneti region are a skier’s paradise.
As far as we’re concerned, we know nothing about winter sports and snow conditions. Our beach-loving souls can barely walk on the snow, to be honest.
But, while in Mestia, we met several people from all over Europe who visited Georgia for skiing when Western Europe’s renowned mountain resorts hardly had any snow.
They told us that skiing in Georgia was insanely affordable and the snow was like powder there, going as far as to say that skiing in Mestia offered them the most thrilling experience. Who are we not to believe them?
They also told us to keep this powder-snow paradise a secret, one to guard with our lives. But we had to share it with you in case there are winter sports lovers among you.
If you’ve been to Tbilisi in winter, you’ve probably heard of Gudauri Ski Resort, the most famous and largest Georgian ski resort. Unlike popular Gudauri, ski resorts in Svaneti are still untouched by massive ski tourism.
The main ski resorts in Upper Svaneti are Hatsvali Resort, near Mestia’s city centre, and Tetnuldi Resort, about an hour’s drive from Mestia.
Although winter sports isn’t our thing, we didn’t miss the chance to visit Hatsvali Resort, not for skiing obviously, but for a scrumptious lunch and a delicious hot chocolate at the cosy chalet.
To get to Hatsvali Ski Resort, you must ride the ski lifts from the edge of Mestia town. Then, the cable car will take you to the upper cable car station at the top of the slopes where the restaurant is situated.
Is Mestia Worth Visiting in Winter If You’re Not a Skier?
As mentioned above, our relationship with skiing is the worst. Therefore, if you’re wondering what to do in Mestia in winter besides skiing, you’re in the right place.
To begin with, the fairytale-like scenery of Mestia in winter, the town’s cosy cafés and restaurants, fascinating museums and gorgeous architecture would be enough to keep you busy and happy.
However, Mestia is also the best base to explore the rest of the Upper Svaneti region, its otherworldly charms and characteristic towers.
Even if the road trip across Svaneti can get challenging during the winter season, as roads are sometimes blocked by snow, the 4×4 adventure is one of the reasons to explore Svaneti in winter in its own right.
Travel Resources For Your Trip To Mestia & Upper Svaneti
Watch Our YouTube Video About Mestia & Upper Svaneti in Winter
10 Things To Do in Mestia in Winter Beyond Skiing
1. Explore Mestia on Foot
Dominated by the impressive Svan Towers, Mestia is a vibrant town with cosy bars and restaurants and several points of interest to explore.
Before venturing beyond your hotel’s comfort for a stroll through the Old Town, do yourselves a favour and wear warm waterproof shoes and crampons.
If only we knew the latter’s existence. Don’t laugh – we may possess any beach gear available but we have no clue about snow gear. As a result, it took us forever to cross the streets without crampons.
2. Learn About Mestia’s Distinct Architecture
Built between the 9th and 12th centuries, the iconic Svan Towers are the indisputable highlights of Mestia. Svan Towers were defensive tower houses that used the lower floors as residences and the upper ones for defence.
If weather permits, you can climb up to Margiani’s House Museum, a great place to learn more about Svan architecture and enjoy panoramic views of the town.
3. Visit The Svaneti Museum of History & Ethnography
A short walk from the city centre, the Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography is a good place to escape the cold for a couple of hours.
With over 4000 exhibits, the renovated museum unfolds the rich history and unique culture of the mountainous region of Svaneti, starting from Ancient Colchis and the Ancient Greek myth of Jason and The Golden Fleece.
One of the rarest items exhibited there is the Venetian Cross, one of only three decorative crosses of this kind in the world. The other two are in the Metropolitan Museum of New York and the Vatican.
4. Have Lunch at Café Laila
People often ask us: What did you like about Georgia the most? The easy answer comes in a heartbeat: Georgian food.
Georgian cuisine is one of the main reasons to visit Georgia. If you’re vegetarian, like us, there are numerous meat-free Georgian dishes you’ll love at first bite.
The Svaneti region features delicious local dishes and one of the best places to try some of them is the cosy and warm Café Laila in Mestia.
Among (many) others, we savoured delicious mushrooms with cheese on a Ketsi – a Georgian clay pan – and the vegetarian mushroom version of Kubdari, Svaneti’s traditional meat-filled pie, there.
5. Buy Svanetian Salt
What makes food in Svaneti stand out is the use of Svanetian Salt, a mix of salt with spices and herbs. Although you may not appreciate the way it smells at first, Svanetian Salt makes food delicious.
Svan Salt is one of the best souvenirs from Georgia. You will find Svanetian Salt almost everywhere in Georgia. Yet, it’s best to buy it at the source, up there in the Svaneti mountains.
The important thing to remember is that Svan Salt has a very strong smell. Wrap it well before placing it in your suitcase for the trip back home. Otherwise, your clothes might smell like Svanetian Salt.
6. Join a Cooking Class in a Traditional Guesthouse
If you are foodies, like us, you don’t want to miss the fantastic experience of a cooking class in a snowy landscape.
Situated in a small village in the vicinity of Mestia, Guest House LALI offers cooking classes in a shed in the heart of a covered-in-snow courtyard with gorgeous mountain views.
The cooking class starts with a few shots of cha-cha, the strong grappa-like Georgian alcoholic beverage. After this welcome warm-up, Lali teaches you how to make some traditional Svanetian dishes.
Kubdari is the signature dish of Svanetian cuisine but we didn’t try it as it’s meat-based. However, there were also vegetarian dishes, like the mouthwatering Petvraali, which is the Svanetian take on Khachapuri.
After the cooking class, it’s time for Supra. If you don’t know what a Supra feast is, read our article about the Georgian Supra where we explain it all.
Inside the warmth of the guesthouse’s dining hall, a table filled with delectable dishes was waiting for us, alongside homemade wine, brandy and cha-cha.
After lunch, you can also buy some of the hand-crafted Svanetian Salt of Lali, a bottle of Georgian brandy or cha-cha. To book a cooking class, contact Lali Guesthouse on Instagram.
7. Soak in a Hot Tub Surrounded By Snow
A great way to finish a day skiing or sightseeing is a relaxing couple of hours at Papa’s Qel Sauna, near the Hatsvali Ski Lift. The sauna is a short walk on deep snow from the entrance of Papa’s Qel.
The highlight is the outdoor hot bathtub in the snow. After soaking in the hot water, you can dive into the deep snow if you want. Otherwise, run to the cosy wooden cabin to put warm clothes on and enjoy a hot beverage.
To book a time slot at Papa’s Qel, contact them via their Facebook Page.
8. Don’t Miss a Svan Hat Masterclass
One of the best things to buy in Mestia and the Svaneti region is a Svan Hat. Svan Hats are made of wool in three colours: grey, black or white.
The most common Svan Hat is grey. Traditionally, the black hat is for sad occasions, such as funerals, whereas the white one is for happy events.
A Svan Hat is something locals still wear as the wool protects them both from the winter cold and the summer heat.
Another interesting fact is that Svan Hats protect from headaches as wool regulates blood pressure. When outdoors, locals also use their Svan Hats to drink water from.
If you are into crafts, there are Svan Hat masterclasses to attend, like the one we did. A short drive from Mestia, Maia’s Guesthouse offers a Svan Hat Masterclass where you can learn all the details about this traditional Georgian craft.
Our host, Maia Qaldani, started making hats when she was just 17 years old. Although she needs three days to finish one hat, she has already made over 1000 hats.
For availability and information about the hat masterclass, email Maia at [email protected].
9. Stop at The Tower of Love
When in Upper Svaneti, you have to visit Ushguli. But more on that on number 10 below. On your way to Ushguli, make a quick stop at the Tower of Love, a once-popular riverside spot for couples to meet.
The love story behind this tower is about a girl who was waiting for the boy she loved but he never came as he was killed. The Tower of Love was built by their parents to honour the memory of their love.
The landscape is gorgeous and it’s worth taking some lovely pictures there.
10. Discover The Magic of Ushguli
We saved the best for last. Ushguli, a group of five small villages in the Caucasus Mountains, was our favourite place during our recent winter trip to Mestia.
Ushguli is the highest inhabited settlement in Europe. For this reason, it’s covered in snow for half of the year.
The mountain pass from Mestia to Usghuli is often blocked due to avalanches. Therefore, check the weather forecast and ask your local driver for advice on the best time to visit Ushguli.
Once in Ushguli, walk along the trail to the 12th-century Lamaria Church, wander around the well-preserved Svan Towers and enjoy a hearty meal at one of Ushguli’s open guesthouses.
Where To Stay in Mestia in Winter
The small town of Mestia is the gateway to the Upper Svaneti region and the area’s ski resorts.
Mestia is home to several family-run hotels. We stayed at Paliani Hotel, a short walk from the city centre, with gorgeous views of Mestia and the river.
Other people in our group stayed at Hotel Posta, in the heart of Mestia, or Gistola Hotel Mestia, both with indoor heated pools.
All hotels have on-site restaurants and cosy communal spaces, ideal for warming up on a cold day. Hotel Posta also hosts live music shows on some evenings.
No matter which hotel you book, don’t forget to bring your crampons to walk around the city without the risk of an injury from the slippery ice.
We hope this complete guide to Mestia in winter inspires you to add this beautiful town and the wider Upper Svaneti region to your Georgia itinerary for a chance to get acquainted with one of a handful of truly authentic places to visit in Europe.
WORDS & IMAGES: Katerina
EDITING: Maria
Disclosure: We published this Upper Svaneti and Mestia in winter guide after visiting the area on a press trip organised by Georgia Travel and Traverse Events. As media and marketing specialists, we sometimes visit destinations on press tours or as part of marketing campaigns. This facilitates us getting to know a place better in less time. Everything you read on this website is our honest opinion based on our personal experience and under no circumstances determined by our hosts.